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Front End Torque Specs

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  • Front End Torque Specs

    I decided while changing to disc brakes (Granadas), I would replace everything on the front end including new springs, shocks and coil spring mounting seats.

    I've gotten the box of parts in and have them mocked up, I just need to torque them down. Anyone know the torque specs of everything on the front end?

    lower control arm to body:
    sway bar to lower control arm:
    sway bar to body:
    strut rod to lower control arm:
    strut rod to body:
    Shock to body:
    Shock to upper control arm:
    Coil spring mounting seat:
    Ball joint to upper control arm:
    Spindle to upper control arm:
    Spindle to lower control arm:
    pitman arm to steering box:
    pitman arm to drag link:
    idler arm to body:
    idler arm to drag link:

    I think that's everything?

    This is on a 1965 Mustang Coupe I6 to V8 Conversion
    (The V8 is in the car and the box of parts are all for the V8 including all steering components)

  • #2
    Did a quick Google search and came up with the following information. All of these specifications are from the 1966 Shop Manual, someone took a picture of the page and posted it.

    All of the Torque Specs are in FT - LBS.

    Originally posted by 65stangman View Post
    I decided while changing to disc brakes (Granadas), I would replace everything on the front end including new springs, shocks and coil spring mounting seats.

    I've gotten the box of parts in and have them mocked up, I just need to torque them down. Anyone know the torque specs of everything on the front end?

    lower control arm to body: 35 - 50
    sway bar to lower control arm: 5 - 11
    sway bar to body: 17 - 25
    strut rod to lower control arm: 55 - 70
    strut rod to body: 40 - 55
    Shock to body: 10 - 15
    Shock to upper control arm: 12 - 17
    Coil spring mounting seat: 17 - 25
    Ball joint to upper control arm: 12 - 15
    Spindle to upper control arm: 60 - 90
    Spindle to lower control arm: 60 - 90
    pitman arm to steering box: 85 - 110
    pitman arm to drag link: 35 - 47
    idler arm to body: 28 - 35
    idler arm to drag link: 35 - 47

    I think that's everything?

    This is on a 1965 Mustang Coupe I6 to V8 Conversion
    (The V8 is in the car and the box of parts are all for the V8 including all steering components)
    Ronnie
    11 F-250 KR PSD - Wife's Daily Driver
    05 F-350 DRW KR PSD - My Daily Driver
    70 Torino GT 351C-4v with a "shaker"
    69 mach1 351W-4V engineless at the time!
    Mustangs and More Member #23
    Gearheads Member #177

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    • #3
      Originally posted by RonnieT View Post
      Did a quick Google search and came up with the following information. All of these specifications are from the 1966 Shop Manual, someone took a picture of the page and posted it.

      All of the Torque Specs are in FT - LBS.
      Thank You so much!

      Comment


      • #4
        I realize no one mentioned it, but don't use Polyurethane Strut Rod bushings. You could easily break a strut rod due to the fact that they don't flex. I tried them and was sorely disappointed.
        68 Mustang Coupe, Lime Gold C-code 289 2V Auto ( bone stock econo box)
        68 Cougar XR7 S-code, Lime Frost, 390 4speed, Edelbrock heads, 11.5 comp, 427 Tunnel Wedge intake and 2 600cfm Edelbrock carbs (far from stock)
        2K Excursion Limited V10 4wd
        09 Focus SES
        2K F350 XLT Power Stroke 6Speed Dually
        48 8N ( a work in progress )


        A wise monkey never monkeys with another monkeys monkey !

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Tinkersaurus View Post
          I realize no one mentioned it, but don't use Polyurethane Strut Rod bushings. You could easily break a strut rod due to the fact that they don't flex. I tried them and was sorely disappointed.

          I read about that in another thread, I stuck with the rubber thanks for the tip!

          Comment


          • #6
            While you're that far into it, I'd recommend doing the Arning drop on the UCA and checking the bushings for wear on the lower control arms. If you have the extra money maybe a set of adjustable struts. Even with front drums, my car stops dead straight straight. I can take my hands off the wheel. Plus it makes adjusting caster or adding a little more easy. Don't go too much extra caster with stock lower arms as it will kill the bushings quicker.

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