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2010 Fusion Transmission shift point change

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  • 2010 Fusion Transmission shift point change

    Hey Fellas,

    I'd like to discuss a new issue with my wife's 2010 Fusion. It's the gasoline 4cylinder, that we purchased with 70K miles about 5 years ago. When it clocked 100K miles, I took it to my local FoMoCo dealer and they flushed and changed the automatic transmission fluid, per the owner’s manual. About a month ago the car clocked 150K miles, so I scheduled it to go back to the FoMoCo dealer for another transmission fluid change, per the manual, and had it done.

    Since having it back from the dealer, the car doesn’t shift the same. With the cruise control set at 65mph, when going into the slightest incline, the transmission will now downshift from OverDrive. It never used to do that. the engine will rev up to about 3K rpms, crest the rise, then upshift back into OD. Outside (hot/cool) weather conditions don’t seem to be a factor. Running or not running the A/C doesn’t seem to be a factor either. If I drive it for about an hour, it will also periodically light the 'wrench' warning light on the dash....then it will go back out......then after a while, it will light again. After driving it at highway speeds for four hours this past Sunday, I stopped for fuel and (with the engine still running) it appeared to be over-filled. Now maybe it was simply overly warm and indicated a level on the high side, but I was tempted to try to drain out some ATF to bring the level down some, but there doesn't seem to be an easy way to do that, so now I'm stumped.

    -- Would the possible over-fill condition cause the increased downshifting events?

    -- I have no way to know or not, but what If the dealer installed the wrong type of ATF, would it cause increased shifting frequencies?

    -- a friend told me the 'wrench' warning light is usually a fuel-related problem, but I didn't sense any drivability issues and the dash computer didn't really indicate any non-typical fuel mileage issues. Maybe the 'wrench' warning light is indicating a non-normal shifting condition?

    What say you ol' M&M members? Any thoughts/suggestions/opinions are welcome! As always, thanks in advance, Guys!

    Quality means doing it right when no one is looking. - Henry Ford

  • #2
    A couple of suggestions. Take it to the car parts store of your choice and have them run a scanner on it to see if it has set any codes. Also, recheck the fluid level after a "normal" warmup and see if it's still high.


    • #3
      That's why they used to say to not mess with changing transmission fluid if the car had a lot of miles on it, you lose the friction particles that have worn off the clutches and are suspended in the fluid, so the clutches don't grip as well anymore. Don't know if this has anything to do with your problem or not, but I don't change transmission fluid. Only two I ever changed, died shortly thereafter. Coincidence? I don't know. My question is when was the last time you changed plugs? It sorta sounds like the plugs are breaking down in a pull, causing a downshift to happen, then it upshifts when the load decreases.
      ----1999 F150 XLT Lariat Super Cab 4X4 5.4----
      -----1947 Lincoln Zephyr Coupe 5.0-----
      -----2005 Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4----
      " Sometimes you fix the car, sometimes the car fixes you" Steve L.

      "Do not let anyone tell you it cannot be done. No challenge can match the heart and fight and spirit of America". President Donald J. Trump


      • #4
        Originally posted by lg57 View Post
        A couple of suggestions. Take it to the car parts store of your choice and have them run a scanner on it to see if it has set any codes. Also, recheck the fluid level after a "normal" warmup and see if it's still high.
        Well, after putting 8K miles on it since the transmission fluid change (July, 2019), I took the wife's Fusion (now at 158K) back to FoMoCo dealer.

        The tech's report said: "Driveability: 158300, Scanned ECM for codes and found P1783, indicating trans has overheated at one point. The vent is wet like it had pushed out fluid (overfilled? pushed out due to overheating?). Fluid looks fine, not dis-colored, not burnt, but it does seem to have some odor (?). Test drove it 5 miles - diagnostics indicated elevated temp @ 180*F. All gears and converter comes on and off as normal. Suspect possible bearing failure internal to transmission - causing the abnormal heat in trans. Re-flashed ECM and cleared codes." Tech said dash warning lite, 'WRENCH' did not lite up during test drive...

        Service Manager told me to drive it and see what it does....?

        Upon leaving the dealer (25 miles away), the car's transmission seemed to be more normal on the way back to the house - not downshifting at every little hill.

        -- This leaves me wondering if I should plan on taking the car back for a codes check in a month or so?

        -- I also wonder if it would make sense to consider having the transmission re-built BEFORE it completely takes a crap (if indeed a bearing is wearing out internally - causing it to overheat) or would is it smarter to run it until it quits - then replace the transmission with a re-built unit?

        I've read where some have had good luck and others have had bad luck with the longivity of this 6F35 transmission...but there's a bunch of them out there too. If I had to rate it, I'd say this car has had a pampered life: never towed anything, no hot rodding, no overloading, relatively rural, flat roads, no wrecks, not stuck in the snow - at least during our ownership/past 80Kmiles. Fluid was changed at dealer @ 100K and again at 150K per the manual, etc.

        Any more thoughts or opinions? Thanks in Advance, Guys!

        Quality means doing it right when no one is looking. - Henry Ford