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  • kid vishus
    started a topic Racing updates

    Racing updates

    Since my previous thread had turned in to a novel and was not focused primarily on the racing aspect, I figured I would start a new topic to leave some not so thrilling updates in.

    Last weekend, there was a 3 day race at Rockingham. Since we had plans on saturday, I took friday off work and made my first trip ever to 'The Rock'.
    First pass, the car spun. Everyone was spinning. One guy about 4 pairs in front of me spun so hard he turned it clear around on the track. Luckily he never hit anything. I had thought the car was going to go 6.28, but it only managed a 6.31.
    Second time run I turned the 2 step down, let the tires down, and softened the rear shocks up. It hooked a lot better (I'm sure the track got better too as it got heat in it and more cars went down it), and the car went 6.286 and I had a .013 bulb. Cool, I'm all set to go some rounds and bring home the big check.
    I filled the cell back up, and as I was walking around the car I noticed a leak. Uh oh, where's that coming from. I poked my head under the car and saw fuel running out around the fitting in the bottom of my fuel pump. Dang, hopefully it's just loose. I grabbed a wrench, reached under there.....and nope, it's tight. I stuck my head under there to get a good luck and saw a crack in the middle of the 90* bend (tube type fitting.) I pulled it off, dumping 3 gallons of alchy on the ground since I didnt have a way to cap it or capture the fuel, and went trailer to trailer hoping someone would have a spare with them. Since it was an oddball, I was out of luck. I went to the tower, got part of my money back, and came home. I fixed it the very next day. I changed it up some and completely removed the filter from the inlet line.

    Yesterday, went to the track again to get some seat time and try to change my luck before the big money races coming up in November.
    Once again, I guessed the car would go 6.28 off the trailer. It went 6.291 and I was -.001 at the tree. Cool. I stuck a little time in the box, and like a dummy raised the shift point to see if the car would like that. The shift point ended up being too close to the hi end rev limter and it actually hit that chip about the same time it tried to shift, so it slowed down a touch and went 6.33 with a .013 light.
    I swapped the shift chip out, dialed it 6.30, and rolled up for first round. My light was not good, his was horrible. I drove around him, whacked it 3 times killing 4 mph and got the W going 6.330. I figured wide open it would have gone 6.310 or so. I left the 6.30 on it, went up for second round, ran it out wide open and went 6.309 and got the W. My light was a touch better but still not where I wanted it, so I took some time out of the box, left the 6.30 on the window and went back up for third round. I got lined up with car dialed 6.24 to my 6.30 so I knew we would be side by side all the way. I was .019 to his .024, and when we hit the finish line I could not tell who get there first it was that close. Turns out, he did by .001. I'm not sure why, but my car slowed down to a 6.327.
    It wasnt the outcome I was looking for, but all in all it wasnt a bad. Well, other than the float sticking on my generator after second time run causing a mild panic, but that's another story. LOL

  • kid vishus
    replied
    I hadnt heard anything about the tires being shipped, so I called them yesterday. Now they are saying they wont ship until Monday. I'll give them until early afternoon Monday, and if I dont have confirmation they have shipped, I'm calling someone else. I HAVE to have a new set here for next weekend, period. I need one week on the new tires before participating in the big money races over Labor Day weekend I've already pre-entered.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis112
    replied
    Originally posted by Tater351C View Post
    Nice reaction times Rob! Off topic question on slicks. How often do you guys swap them from side to side? I just swapped mine this week n the wear looks pretty good on both slicks acrossed the tread.
    I do mine maybe once a month--it lives on the 2 post lift between outings and so its easy to do when I feel like it. It seemed to help in the old days when the slick was beading up from being hit too hard from trying to hook on a greasy track.

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    Originally posted by Tater351C View Post
    Nice reaction times Rob!.
    Thanks Tater.
    My lights definitely got better when I got my new glasses. The little chat I got from a buddy who wins all the time didnt hurt any either.

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    Originally posted by Dennis112 View Post

    Sounds like you need to tighten the extension of the front shocks to help stop the bouncing and unloading.
    I wish it had fancy shocks on the front where I could do that. LOL (Seriously, I think it has CE 90/10's on it or the cheap generic equivalent, or maybe the generic 70/30, I honeslty cant remember which cheap shock it is.)
    Normally it doesnt bounce, but normally it's not shifting in to high gear after only moving 10 feet either.

    Tater, honestly, I never rotate mine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tater351C
    replied
    Nice reaction times Rob! Off topic question on slicks. How often do you guys swap them from side to side? I just swapped mine this week n the wear looks pretty good on both slicks acrossed the tread.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis112
    replied
    Originally posted by kid vishus View Post

    I've run tubes for years. The car simply works better with them. The only times I've run without tubes was A) I was convinced it would be faster without tubes (It wasnt), and B)I had a small tire shop throw a fit there were tubes in there and cut them up and not reinstall them. I cussed him out.Those things arent cheap.
    +1

    I was like Poppy and didn't want to do the tubes for the same reasons. As the car got faster the car got less consistent early in the slick life due to breaking down the stiff side walls. I was also tired of airing the slicks up every week due to pin hole leakage, even though the slicks got the Dawn treatment when installed. I eventually sprung for the race tubes and was pleased with the results. The 6lbs that was added (3lbs each slick) didn't give any negative results. There was absolutely zero difference on ET when compared to previous data. The 28x10.5x15S slicks last much longer and loosing air is no longer a problem. Yes I needed to use screws to keep the slicks from ripping out the valve stem but it really didn't matter since my street tires are mounted on another set of rims for easy swapping.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis112
    replied
    Originally posted by kid vishus View Post
    Last night, one of the local parts places put up 500 bucks for a gamblers race during test n tune with the entry in to the gambler's race being your test n tune fee (essentially a free gambler's race.)
    Since my slicks are shot and apperantly no one wants to ship me any, I decided to see if I could alter things up a bit and make the car work.
    I made my first pass like normal. I was expecting a 6.34 out of it, and it went 6.352 @ 107. Ok, I know what it should be doing. Now lets try this;
    turn the shift point down from 7600 to 5600. Since my converter stalls 6000, I was fully expecting it to shift before it ever moved 5 feet. Well, it moved about 10 feet before it shifted, and the wheels were in the air. 1.58 sixty foot, 6.852 @ 104.5 mph. Ok, let it coold off, then see if it will repeat. 6.858 @ 104.2 mph. Cool, it repeats, now on to the gambler's race. I dialed 6.85. Got lined up with a guy dialed 6.61 or something. I left, he left, we got to about 3/4 track and not only was he not next to me, but I was pulling away. I dropped the nose early killing 11 mph, and still managed to break out .010. But he broke out .018 trying to catch me. Holy crap! It picked up .08 at halftrack. Uh oh, now what do I do. I told my better half there was no way I could dial it down 8 numbers and feel good about it. Then they called out the bye for the next round (best winning reaction time), and it was me. Cool. I dialed it 6.80 and hoped I was going to get to use the bye run. FYI, up to this point my lights were -.011, .007, .014, 1st rnd .010.
    I got lucky and got to use my bye run; .010 light, 6.77 @ 104.8 mph with a 1.51 sixty foot.
    Ok, this is kinda cool other than it's using 1st gear a little more than I really wanted it to. Oh well, on to third round. At this point I was barely doing any burnout, and letting my tire pressure grow figuring with no harder than it was leaving it wasnt a big deal. Yeah, that was the wrong thinking. Third round, dialed it 6.77, left the box alone (still), and lined up with a guy dialed 5.79. I did less burnout (honestly, I dont even know if the tires smoked at all), staged, the car left, the car set the front end down and it bounced (like it had done all day), and started to spin (did I mention at this point it's about 9 pm and the humidity is about 275% and everything is soaking wet?). And it kept spinning. The back end started to sashay back and forth, and the tires were unloading and loading making the rpms flare up all the way down the track. At one point I was convinced I was going to crash the car. I managed to keep it in my lane, but all it could muster was a 6.86 with a 1.58 sixty foot. Oh yeah, I was .005 to his .049. If it would have run even remotely close, I should have had him covered.
    So now at this point I'm not sure if I'm going to go saturday or not. If I do, I need to lower the shift point to 5400 and lower the 2 step to 5000 with hopes of getting it to stop picking the front wheels up.
    I did manage to order slicks, and supposedly they will be here monday, but that doesnt help me for this weekend.
    Sounds like you need to tighten the extension of the front shocks to help stop the bouncing and unloading.

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    Last night, one of the local parts places put up 500 bucks for a gamblers race during test n tune with the entry in to the gambler's race being your test n tune fee (essentially a free gambler's race.)
    Since my slicks are shot and apperantly no one wants to ship me any, I decided to see if I could alter things up a bit and make the car work.
    I made my first pass like normal. I was expecting a 6.34 out of it, and it went 6.352 @ 107. Ok, I know what it should be doing. Now lets try this;
    turn the shift point down from 7600 to 5600. Since my converter stalls 6000, I was fully expecting it to shift before it ever moved 5 feet. Well, it moved about 10 feet before it shifted, and the wheels were in the air. 1.58 sixty foot, 6.852 @ 104.5 mph. Ok, let it coold off, then see if it will repeat. 6.858 @ 104.2 mph. Cool, it repeats, now on to the gambler's race. I dialed 6.85. Got lined up with a guy dialed 6.61 or something. I left, he left, we got to about 3/4 track and not only was he not next to me, but I was pulling away. I dropped the nose early killing 11 mph, and still managed to break out .010. But he broke out .018 trying to catch me. Holy crap! It picked up .08 at halftrack. Uh oh, now what do I do. I told KK there was no way I could dial it down 8 numbers and feel good about it. Then they called out the bye for the next round (best winning reaction time), and it was me. Cool. I dialed it 6.80 and hoped I was going to get to use the bye run. FYI, up to this point my lights were -.011, .007, .014, 1st rnd .010.
    I got lucky and got to use my bye run; .010 light, 6.77 @ 104.8 mph with a 1.51 sixty foot.
    Ok, this is kinda cool other than it's using 1st gear a little more than I really wanted it to. Oh well, on to third round. At this point I was barely doing any burnout, and letting my tire pressure grow figuring with no harder than it was leaving it wasnt a big deal. Yeah, that was the wrong thinking. Third round, dialed it 6.77, left the box alone (still), and lined up with a guy dialed 5.79. I did less burnout (honestly, I dont even know if the tires smoked at all), staged, the car left, the car set the front end down and it bounced (like it had done all day), and started to spin (did I mention at this point it's about 9 pm and the humidity is about 275% and everything is soaking wet?). And it kept spinning. The back end started to sashay back and forth, and the tires were unloading and loading making the rpms flare up all the way down the track. At one point I was convinced I was going to crash the car. I managed to keep it in my lane, but all it could muster was a 6.86 with a 1.58 sixty foot. Oh yeah, I was .005 to his .049. If it would have run even remotely close, I should have had him covered.
    So now at this point I'm not sure if I'm going to go saturday or not. If I do, I need to lower the shift point to 5400 and lower the 2 step to 5000 with hopes of getting it to stop picking the front wheels up. I may need to lower both even more than that.
    I did manage to order slicks, and supposedly they will be here monday, but that doesnt help me for this weekend.
    Last edited by kid vishus; 08-16-2018, 07:00 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    Originally posted by Poppy65 View Post
    What is your burnout procedure with the Mickey's, Rob? Mine are the same M5 compound and I usually do a nice long burnout on the first pass of the day and just spin them clean after that. If I get them hot at all after the first run they turn into grease. After the first run...start the burnout in 2nd and then bang it from third to forth and just let the button go. Mine are just the 28x10.5S but I would think with the same compound they would be the same?
    It varies. Usually depends on how much water the dragsters have drug up towards the starting line. But I had tried short burnouts after the first of the day and it just didnt work with my car. But there are times I definitely over do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    Originally posted by Ryan Wilke View Post
    Poppy65 / KV,
    Do either of you guys run an inner tube in your slicks?

    They may keep the sidewall from going away too fast.......

    Ryan
    I've run tubes for years. The car simply works better with them. The only times I've run without tubes was A) I was convinced it would be faster without tubes (It wasnt), and B)I had a small tire shop throw a fit there were tubes in there and cut them up and not reinstall them. I cussed him out.Those things arent cheap.

    Leave a comment:


  • Poppy65
    replied
    What is your burnout procedure with the Mickey's, Rob? Mine are the same M5 compound and I usually do a nice long burnout on the first pass of the day and just spin them clean after that. If I get them hot at all after the first run they turn into grease. After the first run...start the burnout in 2nd and then bang it from third to forth and just let the button go. Mine are just the 28x10.5S but I would think with the same compound they would be the same?

    Leave a comment:


  • Poppy65
    replied
    Originally posted by Ryan Wilke View Post
    Poppy65 / KV,
    Do either of you guys run an inner tube in your slicks?

    They may keep the sidewall from going away too fast.......

    Ryan
    I run the MT stiff sidewall stick tire with no tubes. I don't want the extra weight but more importantly, for me anyway, don't want to drill and screw the rims. I started running an adjustable clutch last year so the may last longer as it doesn't seem to crush the tire as bad at the hit.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ryan Wilke
    replied
    Poppy65 / KV,
    Do either of you guys run an inner tube in your slicks?

    They may keep the sidewall from going away too fast.......

    Ryan

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    I ran Hoosiers for years, and every time I would try something else, I would go back to the Hoosiers. I always ran the Hoosier 32x13.5W tire. It's a stiff sidewall and I always had good luck with it, but since I moved, the soft compound doesnt agree real well with the heat of NC summers. This last set was M/T 32x14ST. It's also a stiff sidewall but a medium compound. It's actually designed for stick shift cars, so the sidewall is pretty durable in it. However, I'm thinking the sidewalls have gone away. They still smoke up like hell in the water box, but 8 grand in high gear will do that. LOL
    I am tempted to try a set of radials, but they have to be spin balanced, and I'll be da**ed if I can find anyone around here that can spin balance a 32x14 tire.
    I'll talk to my tire guy when I call him tomorrow and see if he thinks I should stick with that same tire, or go with the "normal" stiff sidewall tire. It's a medium compound, but just a touch softer than what I've been running. And given it's a normal stiff sidewall, the sidewall isnt as robust, so each tire is about 5 lbs lighter than the ones on the car now.

    Leave a comment:

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