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Almost ready for the dyno!

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  • Poppy65
    started a topic Almost ready for the dyno!

    Almost ready for the dyno!

    Well, it's been a while in the making gathering parts but my new/old bullet is about ready for the dyno. I was getting worried about pushing my trusty stock block'd 347 for so long and finally upgraded to a Dart SHP block and a little more cubes (363). After building a few of these now (pretending I'm learning things) and with some great help from Mark at Bullet and my head guy, Chad Speier, I think it should pick up a descent amount. The intake valves where shot in my heads so Chad installed 2.08 Ferreas in place of the 2.02s and changed the port a bit to go with bigger 1262R gaskets. The intake is also going from a port matched Victor Jr to a ported Super Vic so it should move quit a bit more air. To take advantage of that and to bring the power band up Mark added about 20 degrees of duration and also maxed out the available lift with my installed height, going from .640 lift to .734. The other big change I made was to take advantage of my vacuum pump so the Diamond pistons are fitted with thin 1mm,1mm,2mm low tension rings. My old 347 made 502hp @7,000, can't wait to see what this giant pump gas 363 makes. Should be tearing up the back roads soon if it ever quits snowing

  • Poppy65
    replied
    Each tube slides into the collector. To be NHRA legal, I would either need to put the 1" weld on each tube or install a stupid collector teether. Unless...you run a full exhaust like I do currently.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tater351C
    replied
    Sounds like you had a good track outting and running great for the temps! On your headers do your collectors slide on to each individual tube? Is that where your saying to weld a 1 inch bead? Mine are Hooker 2 inch with 3 1/2 inch collectors. Only one tube on each side slips out of the collectors. When using mufflers I have a Flowmaster slip-on fitting over the end of the collectors. I welded 4 small metal tabs on each side of the collector and slip-on connection side for the mufflers so they overlapped and bolted together with a 1/4-20 bolt. Makes it easy for removal and install of mufflers. Your probably familiar but Iím not quite understanding and figured Iíd throw it out there.

    Leave a comment:


  • Poppy65
    replied
    Getting closer and closer. Got it down to low 10 teens this weekend with weather in the high 80's - low 90's. Went a few rounds Saturday so very happy with the progress. Don't have enough accurate data with making so many changes to the car and missed my dial. I was 3 hundy off when the track got real hot and my opponent ran his number with a 2. Not going to cut it in Pro but still made good progress. I think I may have slightly glazed the clutch so after our next race it will come apart to get cleaned up. Even with quit a bit of base and the tires up to 12 psi, it won't spin the tire leaving at 6,300. We only get one time trial each day so I don't want to add more tire pressure, take a chance of blowing the tires off, and not get a good number to race with.
    To get the can off in my car I have to pull the driver side header. Well, may as well pull both and put a 1" weld on each primary so I can take the exhaust system off when at the track. That will save almost 50 lbs and get it closer to 3,000 where it used to be.

    Leave a comment:


  • Poppy65
    replied
    Originally posted by kid vishus View Post
    I think your biggest obstacle will be getting the car to cut a good lite on a 4 tenths pro tree to be competitive in Super Gas.
    24" skinnies, tighten up the clutch set-up and 8k launches FTW!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis112
    replied
    I agree with Rob that the gear change isn't worth it. Not much to gain there as you are already close.

    What's your race weight? Repeatable 9.90's during the race season will be a lofty goal unless you can get your race weight under 3000lbs. Otherwise you'll need to find some more HP. A small 75-100 shot of giggly juice should get you there.

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    I think your biggest obstacle will be getting the car to cut a good lite on a 4 tenths pro tree to be competitive in Super Gas.

    Leave a comment:


  • Poppy65
    replied
    Originally posted by kid vishus View Post

    To me, only changing rear gear ratios a couple of points isnt worth it.
    This is exactly what I was wondering/ asking and you reaffirmed my thoughts, thanks!

    You guys brought up a great point I didn't think of. Of course the car will run faster in the good air, but I never thought about the rpm increase due to that at the stripe. I will wait until fall and see what it crosses at.

    Unfortunately I already did the easy stuff on the car for weight savings. Glass hood, light four corner discs, wheels, and use of aluminum when possible. Now it time to really pick the car apart. I'd like to do Kirkey seats but I need the folding option so the kids can get in the back, while they still can. With the bars in the car, I also have five point harness's in back for them so there's another probably 10 lbs. They love going for a cruise in the spring and fall so until they get tired of it, that stuff will need to stay. It still has a full interior and will stay that way aside from removing the heater and windshield wiper garbage.

    Here's my end goal with the car. My buddies run the local divisional and national event stuff and even though it won't be the most competitive car out there, I'd like to join them in the fun from time to time. There are a couple stick guys that run Super Gas around here and actually do fairly well at it. One made the semi's at the national event here last year. So in the end I'd like to have a little pump gas 8.2 deck SBF that run's 9.90 in 75 - 80 degree weather and still be able to take the kids out for ice cream in the spring and fall. Not to hard to accomplish, right?

    Thanks for the help guys! With your help I think, no, I know it will happen!

    Leave a comment:


  • kid vishus
    replied
    Originally posted by Poppy65 View Post
    Yes it has 4.86s Ryan. I think it would stick if I keep the clutch turned down. Do you think 5.00 would even be worth the time?
    I ran a 5.00 for awhile in my previous car. When I swapped it out to a 4.86 for the simple fact it was a cheaper gear set, I bet it didnt change the finish line by much more than a 100 rpm in my junk. Granted that was with a c4, but the car was 3500 lbs and running 10.80s at the time and ran exactly the same with both gears. I just went from a 4.86 to a 5.29 in my current car to try and get a little more finish line rpm. And honestly, I havent looked to see what it gained me.
    To me, only changing rear gear ratios a couple of points isnt worth it. And with your car already turning 7500 in crappy air, like Tater said, what's it going to do in the fall when the air is a lot better? I bet it will pick up a couple hundred rpm just from the air alone. If you end up removing some weight, that too will gain some more rpm.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis112
    replied
    Originally posted by Tater351C View Post
    On changing the rear gear I wonder what difference itíll be with the same gear but with good air?
    Tater makes a good point.

    Also your eventual lightening of the car will allow the motor to get more work done in a shorter amount of time (and thus increase rpm's at the stripe.) Your 60's should show a small improvement too. Removing as much as you can (especially in front of the driver's seat) is a no/low cost mod that gives real world benefits. My neighbor with a prostock car even cuts off the additional length of threads beyond the nuts long bolts that are too long. The first time he did it his car lost 3lbs which may not sound significant but every bit gets his turbo 4 cylinder car closer to his goals of running 7 flat in the 1/4.

    The general rule of thumb is that every 100lbs loss is worth a tenth in the quarter.

    Unfortunately I don't heed this advice very well as I prefer my car to look like it just came off the street. To that end I've retained the full interior (with radio, heater, etc) and run heavy factory type steel wheels on all 4 corners. She's a heavy pig but still knocks off high 9's/low 10's in the quarter.
    Last edited by Dennis112; 07-06-2018, 05:29 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tater351C
    replied
    On changing the rear gear I wonder what difference itíll be with the same gear but with good air?

    Leave a comment:


  • Poppy65
    replied
    Next major move for the project is getting rid of some weight. The car got pretty heavy on me this year. Between the Dart block, the Global West tubular export brace and adding the rest of the pipe to make it a full 10 point cage, it added a full hundred pounds to the car . The full exhaust can easily be taken on and off but I have slip tube collectors and would have to put a 1" weld on each primary or pay for a tether connector. May wait and do that this winter as I have to pull the headers to take off the bell housing anyway. That would take close to 50 lbs out of the car so a good start.

    Do you guys think is would be worth the time/ money to make a small change in the rear gear? With the 4.86's it is going thru the traps at 7,500 so just bit short of peak. Like Dennis mentioned earlier, ideal would be around 8,000. Would you guys make the change?

    Leave a comment:


  • Dennis112
    replied
    Originally posted by Poppy65 View Post
    Well, the weather was absolutely horrible Friday. Mid 90's, water grains in the million range and a DA of 5,200, the highest I've ever seen on our weather station. Car went out an ran 10.30 @ 129 and was a little pissed that it ran so slow with the new carb, but the weather did suck. Forgot to bring my wideband so just kept an eye on the plugs. They looked the same as usual. Ran one more an went the exact same number. Decided to swap back to my old carb just to compare apples to apples. Pretty much the same air as the previous runs, it went 10.47 @ 127. Excellent, it was worth the change. Got down to three cars yesterday before going red. SIL got down to six cars racing my brothers Monte without spray so all in all it was a fun but warm weekend.
    2 mph is a substantial HP gain for the new carb considering the heat. The car responded nicely with an appropriate drop in ET. Guessing it was worth 35-40 hp in the 1/4-what's not to love about that? As Tater mentioned you'll certainly gain quite a bit more in good weather, especially in the spring and the fall. Good Job!

    Leave a comment:


  • Tater351C
    replied
    Originally posted by Poppy65 View Post
    In case you guys are interested and are close enough


    1K to win American Muscle Pro Stick Race at ESTA Dragway Cicero NY June 17th 1/4 mile action Come see wheel standing gear banging old time Dragracing!!!
    Iím 99% sure that one of our regular Pro Stick racers from NY won the race above. He also Won this past weekends race at South Mountain Dragway in Pa. Real nice guy who loves to race.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tater351C
    replied
    Good testing results on the carbs! Sounds like good difference between the two. Bring on the cooler Fall air already. Lol

    Leave a comment:

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