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  • The best nitrous system for the money?

    Whats the best nitrous system out there for the money?
    Looking for a system thats adjustable and is as complete as can be. Also whats the safest amount of horse power to add. For a motor that has low miles and 9.7-1 compression aluminum heads and about a 270h cam.

    Do all systems need to be used with high flow fuel pumps,and timing control systems?

    How much harm does the nitrous do to the motor? Will it shorten the life of the motor by half, if well tuned?
    M&M #1240
    Apr 2001
    Ron

  • #2
    [QUOTE=Fastymz;54307]Whats the best nitrous system out there for the money?
    QUOTE]

    none!!!:hammer: :hammer: :hammer:
    mike r
    racing is real
    everything else is just a game.
    73 mach 1 clone
    83 ltd wagon, street strip. 302
    81 capri-302-7.25 @93mph 1/8
    1.54 60ft 50 % of the fun dragracing is meeting people who will give you the shirt off their back to wipe the grease off your hands.
    M&M member #839 http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/mike470/adel2.jpg
    since nov. 2000

    Comment


    • #3
      I like the Edelbrock Performer RPM setup. Nice quality for the money.
      http://webpages.charter.net/hotrods/n2oMike.jpg

      Mike Burch
      1966 Mustang, Toploader 4-speed
      Pump Gas Flat Tappet 302, 10.134 @ 134.71
      http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

      Comment


      • #4
        I bought a Nitrous Works system because it had more options than NOS and was cheaper... but still don't know how good it works because I haven't used it yet.

        One more thing to consider. You can buy a system bigger than your actual needs and tone it down with a computer controller, but if you buy too small a system your stuck.

        I set mine up with a micro switch on the carb and the N20 only hits when the throttle is wide open, I also have a low fuel hobbs switch which cuts off the nitrous flow if the fuel pressure drops. I have a dedicated fuel pump that ONLY feeds the nitrous solenoid, and I also have a Jacobs nitrous mastermind computer which you can set to regulate many things like how hard you want it to hit and what RPM. But like I stated previously, haven't tried it out yet.
        Ron

        Comment


        • #5
          What other components need to be changed and at what level ?
          Like can a mild motor get away with 100hp ?
          M&M #1240
          Apr 2001
          Ron

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Fastymz View Post
            Like can a mild motor get away with 100hp ?

            Only if it has a big a$$ scoop
            Barry70Stang
            70 Boss 302 Clone
            347 Stroker
            C-4 trans
            12.68 @ 105.87

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Fastymz View Post
              What other components need to be changed and at what level ?
              Like can a mild motor get away with 100hp ?
              I have the Edelbrock base Performer kit 50 75 or 100 shot. They recommend a upgrade to fuel system and a timing retard box I just pull the timing back 4 degrees for the 100 shot. Dyno results with 75 shot 308 rwhp NA 385 with 75 shot. We pulled 2 degrees out for that run and it backed it up next pass too. I can't complain one bit. They have the RPM kit which goes upwards of 250 shot which is way too much for HyperU pistons that are in the GT40 crate. Now the 347 is forged but the block is the limiting factor, stock 5.0 roller block. They do't care for much over 500hp. I believe this motor will be at 370-380 rwhp NA so with the math that's over 500 flywheel with 100 shot so I may step it back to 75. I like the kit it was easy to install other than having to upgrade the fuel system, Though i needed to anyway. Are you putting this on the 65?
              67 Fastback Clearwater Aqua, 347 Sold "15" ford Carlisle
              69 Boss 302 Acapulco Blue project 65k original miles In the body shop now!
              2010 Roush 427R Kona Blue Coupe
              81 Capri New race car project
              2001 F250 7.3 4dr SB 4wd (TRADED)
              2013 F250 6.7 CC SB 4WD Ruby Red

              Comment


              • #8
                One of the big things I don't like about the NOS or Edelbrock plate systems is (correct me if I'm wrong) they use a plastic plate for the spray bars, Nitrous Works uses a billet plate.
                Ron

                Comment


                • #9
                  When I bought mine I went with the Snyper system from NOS,

                  http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

                  I'm not sure what people think of these but I have never had one lick of trouble with it. I run it at 100hp with a Carter strip mechanical pump. If I ever get time I have an electric pump to install and I'll likely try running it at 150hp. The plate is metal and apears to be cast aluminum. Not as nice as billet but it gets the job done and costs less. I also don't use it very much. A few times a year at the track. If I were racing and using my system a lot I'd go with something more robust. Like I said though, for my use I'm very pleased with it. It works, has never fail when I used it, and gives my little 289 a little more umph!

                  BTW, my best run without the nitrous was 12.65. That same night my best run with it was 12.1 but traction was a problem. I'm thinking I can get the car into the 11's or very close with the 100hp hit.

                  HTH,
                  B

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I like the Edelbrock RPM. Quailty stuff, and has the ability to grow with your needs. The 351W block is plenty strong for 200hp or stronger shots as long as the details are taken care of.

                    Here's a post I made some time ago, that might give you some direction when sorting things out.

                    As for tuning...

                    Here ya go...

                    Before you start, make sure to have a bottle heater and pressure
                    gauge, along with a fuel pressure gauge and regulator for the nitrous
                    enrichment. A good ignition system is also mandatory... one that
                    doesn't keep advancing the timing to the moon as the engine revs.
                    It should STOP at around 36 degrees total. (with the nitrous off)
                    Check it!!!!!! Wild advance KILLS nitroused engines...
                    Factory distributors are really bad about this.

                    Mostly geared to a carb system, but applies to all.... Here Goes!!!

                    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                    Now that we've got the juice, how do we have fun with it?

                    Well first off, you don't want to get anxious and hurt your
                    engine... Once the system is properly installed, check to
                    be sure its fuel enrichment is working properly. Turn the
                    nitrous bottle off, arm the system, and with the revs around
                    3000 rpm, tap the button. The engine should fall on it's
                    face. It should be about like hitting a kill button.

                    Now that we know it works (the engine is getting enrichment fuel).
                    Let's see what other items are necessary...

                    -COLDER spark plugs! Do NOT use Split Fires! For the street,
                    use the coldest non racing plug you can find... especially
                    if you might have to use the system with pump gas.

                    -A bottle heater and pressure gauge! You MUST know what your
                    bottle pressure is to get consistent results! The gauge tells
                    you the pressure, the heater allows you to control it. Keep it
                    around 900 psi for best performance.

                    -Fuel... Use the BEST you can find! Detonation on nitrous can
                    lead to some VERY un-pretty things! Straight pump gas should
                    not be used on systems over 125hp on a 302. These engines with
                    their 10 7/16" head bolts are prime game for blown head gaskets
                    if everything isn't right. A little detonation goes a loong way
                    on these motors...

                    Make sure you have a good ignition system with good wires.

                    **** Now that you are set up, how is it tuned???????? ****

                    First is timing. The timing NEEDS to be retarded about 3
                    degrees for every 50hp of nitrous boost. If you don't, it's
                    bye-bye head gaskets, or worse! You need to go with the upper
                    end of this scale when pump gas is used (even if you add octane
                    booster). Just DO IT!!!!! I use MSD's Multi-Step Retard to
                    do this automatically anytime the nitrous is engaged.
                    If you are in the market for an ignition system, The MSD Digital 6 Plus
                    costs $279, has a timing retard, a two step rev limiter, plus
                    is adjusted by little dials. (instead of chips)

                    ******** FUEL SYSTEM ********

                    To start, make SURE your fuel system is able to maintain
                    full fuel pressure at full throttle high rpm with the
                    nitrous engaged! It's better to be safe than sorry here.
                    I've seen cars break into the 10's with a single Mallory
                    140 or Holley Blue pump, but wouldn't really recommend it.
                    I use two Mallory 140's on my car. One for the engine, the
                    other for the nitrous.

                    ******** FUEL PRESSURE ********

                    If the fuel pressure is too high, the car will exhale a bunch
                    of black smoke out the exhaust, and will not run anywhere near
                    its potential. It will feel very lazy (well, for nitrous).
                    We want to lean it out, just not toooo far.
                    My buddy's 2V 351C Mach I went from 9.00 to 8.50 in the 1/8,
                    just from lowering the fuel pressure!

                    Start with the smallest hp jets, with the fuel pressure turned
                    up extra high. This will ensure an extra margin of safety.
                    With the tranny in neutral (park), bring the revs up to 3000
                    and tap the button. The revs should jump up a bit. Probably
                    not super crisp or fast... just kind of a 'VROOOOM'. Do this
                    with the bottle pressure at its operating range. (850-950 psi)

                    If it hits EXTRA hard, like BAM! You are probably a bit lean,
                    and need to increase the fuel pressure.

                    We can now start to decrease the fuel pressure....
                    Do this with the car in neutral. Starting with the pressure
                    high, we are going to be tapping the button at 3000 rpm as we
                    gradually decrease the fuel pressure.

                    As the fuel pressure is lowered, the engine will start to respond with
                    increasing aggressiveness. The VROOOOOM will start to turn into
                    a BANG! When it BEGINS to get pretty crisp, it's time for a road test!

                    At full throttle around 3500 rpm, hit the button and hold it
                    for 3-4 seconds. The car should respond in a positive manner.
                    As you let off the button, kill the engine, coast to a stop,
                    and check the plugs. They should look clean, but have NO specks
                    on the porcelain. If they do, it's aluminum from the pistons,
                    and the fuel pressure needs to be increased. Chances are, at
                    this point it will still be a little rich, and you will find no specks.

                    Decrease the fuel pressure a little at a time while making the
                    above test. As soon as you begin to see ANY specks on the plugs,
                    raise the fuel pressure a half pound or so, and you should be
                    close to optimum for that hp level. If you want to try other
                    jets, you need to go through this same testing procedure again.
                    Start rich, and work your way down.

                    You will be **AMAZED** at how much better a nitrous system works
                    once the fuel pressure has been optimized!

                    **** Other things that help optimize a nitrous equipped car ****

                    - A good exhaust. BIGGER is BETTER! 3" pipe and mandrel
                    bends rule in nitrous applications!

                    - Proper camshaft. A lobe separation around 110 deg is a
                    good compromise on a carbed street engine.
                    Some extra exhaust duration is also a plus.
                    8-12 extra degrees is good. To maximize
                    nitrous performance, go to 112. 114 on an
                    EFI car.

                    - Compression. Low compression makes tuning a lot more
                    forgiving. Make the same mistake with both
                    a high and low compression engine, and your
                    chances of living through it are MUCH better
                    with the lower compression.

                    If an engine is a little low on compression
                    anyway, (5.0 with a cam for example) nitrous
                    can bring in a SERIOUS wake-up call!

                    Good Luck, and HAVE FUN!!!!!
                    http://webpages.charter.net/hotrods/n2oMike.jpg

                    Mike Burch
                    1966 Mustang, Toploader 4-speed
                    Pump Gas Flat Tappet 302, 10.134 @ 134.71
                    http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      [QUOTE=capri man;54318]
                      Originally posted by Fastymz View Post
                      Whats the best nitrous system out there for the money?
                      QUOTE]

                      none!!!:hammer: :hammer: :hammer:
                      YOU GOT THAT RIGHT!!!!!!!!!


                      "THIS JUICE IS FOR SISSY'S"
                      Phil
                      Friends are like wedgies..They know your inner self..They're intimately close..And it feels great when you pick out a good one.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have not been a big fan of the idea of using nitrous. But I have to buddy that have been running it for years. They run so much faster then I do. For the money I can't think of another item that would give for the same results and be as easy to install?
                        I was really asking for a friend that has a similar built 351w like mine in his Falcon. But I most admit I'm also interested in learning more about it too?

                        Thanks for all the information it really has helped.

                        Any one know if nitrous does shorten the life of a motor? I have many people tell me you can only get 5000-10000 miles out of a motor using 100hp or more nitrous?
                        Last edited by Fastymz; 08-07-2007, 05:17 PM.
                        M&M #1240
                        Apr 2001
                        Ron

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hi I have been running a Edelbrock Performer for 18 months now, with no problems I started out at a 50 shot and worked up to the 100 shot, I am running it on a stock bottom end 302 and stock pistons, I have an msd ignition so I have it pull the ignition back by 5 degrees.

                          The plate on my kit is aluminium, and as far as I know they still are.

                          I have sold a few different kit to customers, mainly NOS as that is what they have ordered, but I think the Edelbrock kit is better.

                          I think one item that is worth running is a purge, as the hit comes in harder off the line, it works for me
                          - - - - - - - - - - - -
                          302 with Toploader 3.80 rear. 1.78 60ft 12.91 @ 106.88

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nitrous is the BEST answer for a true street car...

                            You can build a fairly mild PUMP GAS friendly engine that is right at home on the street... but then replace the pump gas with race fuel, open the bottle, and run with the race cars.

                            It's a MUCH more streetable way to have it both ways. A n/a engine that runs with a nitrous engine of similar displacement is generally too wild for much street driving, and has a much shorter service life.

                            Nitrous is the best way to go for a street car that also wants to go FAST when the need arises.

                            Good Luck!
                            http://webpages.charter.net/hotrods/n2oMike.jpg

                            Mike Burch
                            1966 Mustang, Toploader 4-speed
                            Pump Gas Flat Tappet 302, 10.134 @ 134.71
                            http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/moi-display.cgi?220

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by n2omike View Post
                              I like the Edelbrock RPM. Quailty stuff, and has the ability to grow with your needs. The 351W block is plenty strong for 200hp or stronger shots as long as the details are taken care of.

                              Here's a post I made some time ago, that might give you some direction when sorting things out.

                              As for tuning...

                              Here ya go...

                              Before you start, make sure to have a bottle heater and pressure
                              gauge, along with a fuel pressure gauge and regulator for the nitrous
                              enrichment. A good ignition system is also mandatory... one that
                              doesn't keep advancing the timing to the moon as the engine revs.
                              It should STOP at around 36 degrees total. (with the nitrous off)
                              Check it!!!!!! Wild advance KILLS nitroused engines...
                              Factory distributors are really bad about this.

                              Mostly geared to a carb system, but applies to all.... Here Goes!!!

                              ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                              Now that we've got the juice, how do we have fun with it?

                              Well first off, you don't want to get anxious and hurt your
                              engine... Once the system is properly installed, check to
                              be sure its fuel enrichment is working properly. Turn the
                              nitrous bottle off, arm the system, and with the revs around
                              3000 rpm, tap the button. The engine should fall on it's
                              face. It should be about like hitting a kill button.

                              Now that we know it works (the engine is getting enrichment fuel).
                              Let's see what other items are necessary...

                              -COLDER spark plugs! Do NOT use Split Fires! For the street,
                              use the coldest non racing plug you can find... especially
                              if you might have to use the system with pump gas.

                              -A bottle heater and pressure gauge! You MUST know what your
                              bottle pressure is to get consistent results! The gauge tells
                              you the pressure, the heater allows you to control it. Keep it
                              around 900 psi for best performance.

                              -Fuel... Use the BEST you can find! Detonation on nitrous can
                              lead to some VERY un-pretty things! Straight pump gas should
                              not be used on systems over 125hp on a 302. These engines with
                              their 10 7/16" head bolts are prime game for blown head gaskets
                              if everything isn't right. A little detonation goes a loong way
                              on these motors...

                              Make sure you have a good ignition system with good wires.

                              **** Now that you are set up, how is it tuned???????? ****

                              First is timing. The timing NEEDS to be retarded about 3
                              degrees for every 50hp of nitrous boost. If you don't, it's
                              bye-bye head gaskets, or worse! You need to go with the upper
                              end of this scale when pump gas is used (even if you add octane
                              booster). Just DO IT!!!!! I use MSD's Multi-Step Retard to
                              do this automatically anytime the nitrous is engaged.
                              If you are in the market for an ignition system, The MSD Digital 6 Plus
                              costs $279, has a timing retard, a two step rev limiter, plus
                              is adjusted by little dials. (instead of chips)

                              ******** FUEL SYSTEM ********

                              To start, make SURE your fuel system is able to maintain
                              full fuel pressure at full throttle high rpm with the
                              nitrous engaged! It's better to be safe than sorry here.
                              I've seen cars break into the 10's with a single Mallory
                              140 or Holley Blue pump, but wouldn't really recommend it.
                              I use two Mallory 140's on my car. One for the engine, the
                              other for the nitrous.

                              ******** FUEL PRESSURE ********

                              If the fuel pressure is too high, the car will exhale a bunch
                              of black smoke out the exhaust, and will not run anywhere near
                              its potential. It will feel very lazy (well, for nitrous).
                              We want to lean it out, just not toooo far.
                              My buddy's 2V 351C Mach I went from 9.00 to 8.50 in the 1/8,
                              just from lowering the fuel pressure!

                              Start with the smallest hp jets, with the fuel pressure turned
                              up extra high. This will ensure an extra margin of safety.
                              With the tranny in neutral (park), bring the revs up to 3000
                              and tap the button. The revs should jump up a bit. Probably
                              not super crisp or fast... just kind of a 'VROOOOM'. Do this
                              with the bottle pressure at its operating range. (850-950 psi)

                              If it hits EXTRA hard, like BAM! You are probably a bit lean,
                              and need to increase the fuel pressure.

                              We can now start to decrease the fuel pressure....
                              Do this with the car in neutral. Starting with the pressure
                              high, we are going to be tapping the button at 3000 rpm as we
                              gradually decrease the fuel pressure.

                              As the fuel pressure is lowered, the engine will start to respond with
                              increasing aggressiveness. The VROOOOOM will start to turn into
                              a BANG! When it BEGINS to get pretty crisp, it's time for a road test!

                              At full throttle around 3500 rpm, hit the button and hold it
                              for 3-4 seconds. The car should respond in a positive manner.
                              As you let off the button, kill the engine, coast to a stop,
                              and check the plugs. They should look clean, but have NO specks
                              on the porcelain. If they do, it's aluminum from the pistons,
                              and the fuel pressure needs to be increased. Chances are, at
                              this point it will still be a little rich, and you will find no specks.

                              Decrease the fuel pressure a little at a time while making the
                              above test. As soon as you begin to see ANY specks on the plugs,
                              raise the fuel pressure a half pound or so, and you should be
                              close to optimum for that hp level. If you want to try other
                              jets, you need to go through this same testing procedure again.
                              Start rich, and work your way down.

                              You will be **AMAZED** at how much better a nitrous system works
                              once the fuel pressure has been optimized!

                              **** Other things that help optimize a nitrous equipped car ****

                              - A good exhaust. BIGGER is BETTER! 3" pipe and mandrel
                              bends rule in nitrous applications!

                              - Proper camshaft. A lobe separation around 110 deg is a
                              good compromise on a carbed street engine.
                              Some extra exhaust duration is also a plus.
                              8-12 extra degrees is good. To maximize
                              nitrous performance, go to 112. 114 on an
                              EFI car.

                              - Compression. Low compression makes tuning a lot more
                              forgiving. Make the same mistake with both
                              a high and low compression engine, and your
                              chances of living through it are MUCH better
                              with the lower compression.

                              If an engine is a little low on compression
                              anyway, (5.0 with a cam for example) nitrous
                              can bring in a SERIOUS wake-up call!

                              Good Luck, and HAVE FUN!!!!!
                              Man that is VERY informative Mike! I have never thought of getting it, but I wish I could save this for reference just in case I ever did. You rock dude!!!
                              William

                              Semper Fidelis

                              Comment

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