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Amplifier Kickin my Butt

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  • Amplifier Kickin my Butt

    My middle daughter bought a Scion as her first car. It came with an MTX dual amp/subwoofer set up. She totaled that car about 6 months ago and got a 2012 Fusion. We pulled the amps/sub out of the Scion and finally got around to installing it today. I got it all wired up, but zippy for output. Seemed to be a Line out converter that wouldn't push audio, so I bypassed it just to see if I could get it working. Seemed to work sporadically, so I spliced an RCA connector onto the speaker wire input so I could connect it to the amp (RCA in). Nothing. When it did work, there was a red LED that came on the amp. Hadn't seen that before. Sat down and read up on the Amps (MTX 4122 and 421D), and they seem to indicate that the LED is indicative of 12V power with good ground. That got me chasing bad grounds and power, but the multimeter is showing 12V at the inputs of both amps. That would seem to me to indicate that both power and ground are good, but the amp is bad. There are 3 fuses on them. One was bad. I replaced the bad one, to no avail. Still no LED. I'm at a loss at this point. Anybody have experience with this stuff? Looking for ideas.....doesn't appear that the audio in should have any bearing on the LED. /frustrated.
    It isn't an official project until you've bled on it!

    M&M Member #33
    '66 Coupe C code
    '01 Saleen S281SC #648

  • #2
    Figured it out. I didn't realize you needed to have 12V to the remote power terminal too. I hot wired it for now to ensure it's all working (it is). I'll have to hunt for a non-constant power source tomorrow. At least I can sleep easy now. lol

    I thought that remote line had something to do with the power antenna. Not sure what we all did before the Internet!
    It isn't an official project until you've bled on it!

    M&M Member #33
    '66 Coupe C code
    '01 Saleen S281SC #648

    Comment


    • #3
      I am borderline retarded when it comes to electronics. LOL
      I really want to have some better speakers and an amp put in my 2016 Mustang. I figure I'll end up paying someone to do it since that car has so many factory speakers in it. That is one thing I wish it had that was different. Instead of the base stereo system I wish it would have come with the upgraded sound system. My hearing is so f**ked up I cant tell the difference between "good" sounding, and "elite" sounding. But I can tell when it's loud enough, and this one isnt near loud enough. It sounds good enough for me, just not loud enough.
      Rob Hetzler
      M&M member since Oct 2000, #773
      Roxboro Dragway 2011 Top ET champion

      My Photo Page

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      • #4
        Electronics always frustrates me too, so Iím no help here.
        '70 Mach 1 - '72 Sprint - '94 F-150 XL -'97 E-150 - '18 Edge SEL AWD

        My Mach's restoration progress
        My Sprint's restoration progress
        ĒMercy for the guilty is cruelty to the innocent.Ē ~ Adam Smith

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        • #5
          Dang, between the 351C build thread and this one, I'm feeling old. I've got an old KMC 3 band equalizer I have been saving for something, probably put it in the Lincoln. Got to thinking about it, I bought it back in the 80's. 30 something years ago. I'm so damn far behind I feel like an antique.

          I need to find that rocking chair.....
          ----1999 F150 XLT Lariat Super Cab 4X4 5.4----
          -----1947 Lincoln Zephyr Coupe 5.0-----
          -----2005 Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4----
          " Sometimes you fix the car, sometimes the car fixes you" Steve L.

          "Do not let anyone tell you it cannot be done. No challenge can match the heart and fight and spirit of America". President Donald J. Trump

          Comment


          • #6
            Yup, gotta have that little BLUE wire hooked up or amp will not see a turn on signal. If youíre wiring up to the factory system, easy to forget if you donít do these very often, because there is no blue wire (amp turn on).
            I just completed an install myself, an older Alpine 4 channel amp, a new Sony head unit, Polk 5x7ís in the rear, Polk separates in the front, and to top it off? 2, 12Ē sub bandpass box in the trunk. $550 worth of fresh Crutchfield electronics (not including the amp) into my $800 Escort....lol!!
            M&M Member #91
            Ford Dealership Engine/Chassis Master Certified Technician
            US Navy submarine vet; Operation Iraqi Freedom vet..x 2...USAF Reserve...RETIRED, 26 total years

            Current 2003 Azure Blue Mach 1. All My Past Mustangs:'84 GT-5 spd, my first; '91 GT-auto; '70 M-code Mach 1-grabber yellow; '95 GTS-5 spd, Pro-Charged, totaled; '95 GTS 5 spd, replacement; '89 LX 5.0 'vert-5 spd; '90 LX 5.0 hatch-5 spd; '69 M-code Mach 1-4 spd; '90 5.0 LX 'vert; '03 Mach 1-5 spd, '93 Mustang LX vert.

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, that was my issue. FYI, if you just run a jumper wire from the main power feed, they work great. However, your car battery dies overnight.....ask me how I know.....now to go find a power wire.....
              It isn't an official project until you've bled on it!

              M&M Member #33
              '66 Coupe C code
              '01 Saleen S281SC #648

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by GTRocks View Post
                Yeah, that was my issue. FYI, if you just run a jumper wire from the main power feed, they work great. However, your car battery dies overnight.....ask me how I know.....now to go find a power wire.....
                Should be simple enough to find an ignition on-hot fuse/empty slot in the BCM, but would be ideal to locate an ignition on 12v source closer to where youíre mounting the amp, so you donít have to run a long piece of wire (Iím assuming youíre mounting amp in trunk?)
                I know you know this, but donít forget to install an inline fuse close to your power source, if youíre tapping into a power wire.
                M&M Member #91
                Ford Dealership Engine/Chassis Master Certified Technician
                US Navy submarine vet; Operation Iraqi Freedom vet..x 2...USAF Reserve...RETIRED, 26 total years

                Current 2003 Azure Blue Mach 1. All My Past Mustangs:'84 GT-5 spd, my first; '91 GT-auto; '70 M-code Mach 1-grabber yellow; '95 GTS-5 spd, Pro-Charged, totaled; '95 GTS 5 spd, replacement; '89 LX 5.0 'vert-5 spd; '90 LX 5.0 hatch-5 spd; '69 M-code Mach 1-4 spd; '90 5.0 LX 'vert; '03 Mach 1-5 spd, '93 Mustang LX vert.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yeah, I swear that car has nothing in the trunk that is hot. Ended up routing a wire all the way down the passenger side (driver side is pretty much full) and across under the dash to connect to a non-constant source. I did not do a fuse, but you're right, I should have. Guess I still have more work to do. I didn't even think about that, but you're absolutely right. Thanks for the reminder. Back to the store.... what do you think....1 amp fuse? 1/2 amp?
                  It isn't an official project until you've bled on it!

                  M&M Member #33
                  '66 Coupe C code
                  '01 Saleen S281SC #648

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GTRocks View Post
                    Yeah, I swear that car has nothing in the trunk that is hot. Ended up routing a wire all the way down the passenger side (driver side is pretty much full) and across under the dash to connect to a non-constant source. I did not do a fuse, but you're right, I should have. Guess I still have more work to do. I didn't even think about that, but you're absolutely right. Thanks for the reminder. Back to the store.... what do you think....1 amp fuse? 1/2 amp?
                    If you tapped into a circuit under the dash somewhere (and not into the junction box), I'd just splice in a cheap fuse holder with a 5amp fuse....two butt connectors and done! Splice the fuse holder as close to where you tapped into the circuit as possible.

                    You're probably not going to burn down the car with that small of a wire if you don't protect it, but if your turn on wire were to rub against something metal, and pops that circuits fuse, you may not realize that it's your turn on wire blowing the fuse, take it in for a warranty repair and "hey, looky there, a warranty repair just turned into a $150-$300 customer pay repair".

                    Ask me how I know this.....I've seen it a few times in my day....
                    M&M Member #91
                    Ford Dealership Engine/Chassis Master Certified Technician
                    US Navy submarine vet; Operation Iraqi Freedom vet..x 2...USAF Reserve...RETIRED, 26 total years

                    Current 2003 Azure Blue Mach 1. All My Past Mustangs:'84 GT-5 spd, my first; '91 GT-auto; '70 M-code Mach 1-grabber yellow; '95 GTS-5 spd, Pro-Charged, totaled; '95 GTS 5 spd, replacement; '89 LX 5.0 'vert-5 spd; '90 LX 5.0 hatch-5 spd; '69 M-code Mach 1-4 spd; '90 5.0 LX 'vert; '03 Mach 1-5 spd, '93 Mustang LX vert.

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